Tech Thread Only?

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Re: Tech Thread Only?

323818
  I've replaced several canister assemblies with luck on Toyotas, I think there's a TSB on it.
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none
323818 wrote
I've replaced several canister assemblies with luck on Toyotas, I think there's a TSB on it.
It is usually the Vacuum Switching Valve that is the bad part but it only comes as an assembly. If you take the Nippon Denso number off the VSV you can buy some of those separate. You can also buy some VSVs that work the same but the little groove on the connector has to be shaved off to fit. That is the case where you could use the Tercel VSV on a 4Runner. Now the Tercel VSV is no longer available and the 4Runner VSV only comes with the canister.
People are usually shocked when they find out I'm not a very good electrician.
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323818
  Yeah for the most part it is the VSV, I wonder why it's sold as an assembly.
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scanner
323818 wrote
Yeah for the most part it is the VSV, I wonder why it's sold as an assembly.
The VSV is available separately on the Japanese built vehicles.   I worked on a 2000 Camry, and a 2003 Camry, both needed canisters, there was nothing wrong with either VSV, you can see it switch in the graph I put up.  

The first 2 are different engine platforms.  

90910-12109  1997-2001 Camry

90910-12198  1997-2001 Camry  

90910-12264  2002-2006 Camry

The US built ones are not in the catalog, but if you look at the part number stamped on the VSV, you should be able to procure one.  
Why make it simple, when it will work equally as well complicated.
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In reply to this post by smgmn
I have a 1998 Toyota 4Runner 3.4L 4WD that was towed into my shop about an hour ago.   The engine is a fresh install and has never run.   It has a P1300 in memory, and I spent too much time chasing that code.   There is nothing wrong with the igniter or related circuits.    

I have a SnapOn BAR97 and it only reads up to 2000 ppm HC MAX, and 2000 ppm was coming out the tail pipe when I cranked the engine over.   The engine kinda wants to catch and run, but it just stops cranking.  

I took a look at the crank and cam relationship, and I called the other shop to tow it out.   What did I tell them to fix?  

Right click and open this image/waveform in another tab or window.  

Why make it simple, when it will work equally as well complicated.
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none
Is there a double triggering happening on the crankshaft position sensor?
People are usually shocked when they find out I'm not a very good electrician.
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none wrote
Is there a double triggering happening on the crankshaft position sensor?
What would you tell the shop to fix?  
Why make it simple, when it will work equally as well complicated.
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none
My guess is that the tone wheel on the crankshaft T-belt pulley has a missing tooth 7 teeth before the TDC gap.
People are usually shocked when they find out I'm not a very good electrician.
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none wrote
My guess is that the tone wheel on the crankshaft T-belt pulley has a missing tooth 7 teeth before the TDC gap.
Very good!   I told the shop to get another tone wheel, and bring me the old one.   If they remember to bring it to me, I'll put an image of it up.  



It set a P1300 and that's what I chased at first, but after checking power and ground, ignition primary, and finally IGF, I determined there was nothing wrong with the ECM or the Igniter.  

The ECM saw that IGF didn't coincide with CKP, and set the code.   However,  there's no description in service information that states that the ECM can do that.    

In the first post I stated that there was 2000 ppm at the tail pipe and checking the P1300 I confirmed ignition, I figured that timing must be off.    It was at that point I checked CKP and CMP correlation, and hit pay dirt.  
Why make it simple, when it will work equally as well complicated.
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none
I wonder if the other shop did it pulling the lower crank pulley off or if the engine came with the timing belt already pre-intsalled and pulley pre-screwed up.

On the 3.4L I've seen the wire to the cam sensor not clipped back in its holder and eaten by the belts and it is a shielded wire. I have also seen the spring loaded cam gear not set and rattle like hell and I've seen the bolt left in on the spring loaded cam gear and the cam broken off. I've seen the A/C belt set too tight and the main bearings knock but I haven't seen a broken tone-wheel tooth until now.  
People are usually shocked when they find out I'm not a very good electrician.
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In reply to this post by none
none wrote
My guess is that the tone wheel on the crankshaft T-belt pulley has a missing tooth 7 teeth before the TDC gap.
I just got the pulley back from the other shop.  It's running without any issues, at least none that they want me to address.

Why make it simple, when it will work equally as well complicated.
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none
It looks like I was looking at the wrong pulse. The missing tooth is after TDC.
People are usually shocked when they find out I'm not a very good electrician.
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none wrote
It looks like I was looking at the wrong pulse. The missing tooth is after TDC.
You marked the correct pulse on my waveform.    
Why make it simple, when it will work equally as well complicated.
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Re: Tech Thread Only?

barrym95838
Administrator
scanner wrote
... You marked the correct pulse on my waveform.
I think None might be right (about being wrong) ... his red arrows seem to be pointing to the signature pulses that are supposed to be there.

barrym95838
EO/EI/LA/BA144107
“Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity.”
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scanner
barrym95838 wrote
I think None might be right (about being wrong) ... his red arrows seem to be pointing to the signature pulses that are supposed to be there.
If you're standing in front of the 4Runner, the crank rotates clockwise.  The signature is to the right (the first higher amplitude signal), and the broken tooth happens after the signature, 7 teeth later.  
Why make it simple, when it will work equally as well complicated.
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scanner
In reply to this post by barrym95838
barrym95838 wrote
scanner wrote
... You marked the correct pulse on my waveform.
I think None might be right (about being wrong) ... his red arrows seem to be pointing to the signature pulses that are supposed to be there.

barrym95838
EO/EI/LA/BA144107
Man, I feel stupid.   You guys are right.  What was I thinking?   I read it bassackwards.      
Why make it simple, when it will work equally as well complicated.
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none
Ha, Don't feel stupid. You figured this out without ever seeing the damaged tone wheel and knew where to look for the problem based on the symptom. That is impressive.

We just had to identify the hick-up in the scope pattern you posted.  
People are usually shocked when they find out I'm not a very good electrician.
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Re: Tech Thread Only?

Best Answer I Can Give
 Talk about being in the DARK. WTF is a Tone wheel?
I got the Scope picture, but tone wheel?
I understand why and what it does, but Tone wheel?

 My Point? I'm consider myself pretty damn good. But even the best needs a refresher course and keep their fingers in it. So the truth is I' so, so.
Now compared to some of the other guys that have shops, I'm a fucking EXPERT. But I am only so, so.

 Being T.O. has left me in the dark. A TONE WHEEL? Wonder why that name?

 One thing I have always said is, If you know how to use a lab scope you can repair any vehicle as long as you know what the picture should look like.
tired, and just not the tired that sleep can fix.
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defective


ASE > Ask Someone Else
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D Rochells 150861
In reply to this post by Best Answer I Can Give
I worked with a guy who called it a reluctant ring.
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