One of the smarter guys on this site is None.
I phoned and talked to him one night, about, if I should sell my 2nd dyno.
He made a very good point. Why sell it. If the State ever wakes up and you need one you will then pay a lot more than what you sold it for. It is costing you nothing to keep it in the ground. SMART.
Now I do not agree at all with None and buying a new unit. My reasons.
Buy. $14000 with a 1 year service contract. What is a new yearly contract going to cost? My SPX was $300 a month. The Rent on the Opus is @$450 a month. So I look at it as it cost me @$150 a month. Get rid of the 2 phone lines at @$75 a month, Hell I'm even. That's when they go Inter Net.
None, bought the machine after a year what will it cost him? How much will be the service contract. @$300. I heard the ESP contract was closer to $400 a month.
Now as to WW. The reason I didn't go with them? Read some of the post on this site. Service and the so called repairs, SUCKED. Down time is money out of your pocket. They go somewhere else. Is it worth the chance of you never seeing them again.
Yes my Opus has some problems. But service is pretty quick and done right.
The FACT that we only have TWO to choose from? Now as I understand it, that has brockeen some rule under the State Charter. You must have 3. 3 because the 1 always keeps the other 2 HONEST.
Life will give you rope. It will give you enough to make a ladder to pull yourself up, or an noose to hang yourself with.
ESP gen3 here, gas cap calibration failed again for the 3rd time now since we got the machine in July. Now the waiting game for the tech to come down and fix it. Had some random OBD tester initialization issues early on where it would cause a false fail on an inspection. Cable itself is cumbersome to use(long cord to obd module, short cord to DLC). Its marginally better than the gen2.
... Cable itself is cumbersome to use(long cord to obd module, short cord to DLC) ...
Yeah, I wonder why they did that. It almost seems like they want you to have easy access to the buttons on the interface while you're inside the vehicle, but I have not yet had the slightest need for any of those buttons, inside or outside the vehicle.
“Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity.”
I used to work with the ESP gen 1 and gen 2 and they are or were very good machines. Cannot say anything about the gen 3 cause we have a WW . The WW is abort-happy . If you have a gas cap on the tester and it fails , the WW needs to check its own gascaptester before you can put the gas cap back on there . My boss kept entering ok and it aborted the test because it just had to check itself out first ! Also if you try to go back for anything , you cannot =abort . The cable to the obd is long but not long enough to reach a motorhome .The esp would offer an extension to the obd cable , the WW did not come with an extension to anything =abort . You cannot soft reboot just hard reboot . That reboot requires a mandatory 30 minute warm up ! Also have to be careful on the way they worded their timing questions . For instance , it asks - Is the rpm out of manafacturer specifications? But only after it asks you -Is the timing adjustable ? so i enter a y and then the second question is an N not a Y . Other than these problems , I guess its pretty solid and very fast !
I recommend the ESP (gen 3) over the WW for the sole reason that it is abort proof and requires a very short warmup when abort proofing. Funny how the difference between the two (12 v external capability) creates two different pass/fail criteria for OBD comm.